September 24, 2006
The Orient Express is something that always intrigued both of us, but seeing as how the cost of two tickets is equivalent to airfare to New Zealand, we knew it would never happen. But with the Red Letter Day, luckily we did get to try it. We opted to go on a day trip to Rye, a very old coastal village in the south of England (at the time, we hadn't known we could've taken the Orient Express to York, which is slightly more appealing as neither of us have ever been to York. Oh well.)
We showed up at Victoria Station feeling bleary-eyed-Victoria is not easy to get to from our home during Peak Travel times and we'd had to leave really early that morning to get there in time. We sign in and are giving our seating-we were to be on the Lucille Coach, seats 15 and 16.
OK, cool.
We wait with many others who are dressed up-although the tickets urged us to dress in 1920's fashion, I knew there was absolutely no way anti-costume Angus was going to do that (I love the fashion of that time, but I wasn't going to dress up like a Flapper, regardless.) Waiting there, I saw no one else did, either. The other patrons were wearing business suits and dresses, and in general they were older and middle-aged couples. I think it's possible I was the youngest person there, but that just meant more champagne for me.
The train finally showed. It hauled onto the platform and people on other platforms stopped and stared-it's honestly an amazing train.
(That's me with Starbucks. Coffee must be had in the morning or I can't function.)
Once on, we couldn't believe it. It was so sumptuous, it was incredible. All of the Pullman cars were originals from the 1920's, all fully restored to original condition using methods from 1920's construction. The walls had inlaid designs from holly bushes, the seats were plush, and the china and crystal were real.
Even the toilets were amazing-stained glass windows, dark cherry wood, original mosaic tiles in the design of African wildlife, and original silver pipes.
(Why yes, I asked Angus to take a pic of the toilet. Lucky for me, he did.)
I couldn't believe it. I was afraid to touch anything. I was afraid to breathe. Everything was so pristine, so beautiful.
They came round with bellinis and breakfast-fresh fruit, followed by salmon with caviar and scrambled eggs with chives. I had never had food like this for breakfast-with the exception of the weekends we tend to be yogurt and cereal kinds of people but hey-when in Rome and all that.
Across from us sat a wealthy couple from Malta-we talked a bit, chatted, and then went about our business of being gobsmacked from the glamour of a train ride.
We also got giggly from the bubbly.
When we got to Ashford, we hopped off the train to be taken via coach to Rye, a lovely seaside village. Unfortunately, the coach also came with a tour guide who talked.
Extensively.
About everything.
We heard about buildings. We heard about minerals in the area. We heard about the various flora and fauna that grew on the pebbly beach (at which point my suicidal tendencies started re-surfacing). We heard about famous people from the turn of the century who had lived in the area. I think it was right about the time that she was listing all of the birds and types of birds found in the area that I switched from "suicide" to "Red Rum" perspective.
Finally, we were in Rye.
We walked around-bought a few antiques (him, a 1920's lampshade that's now hanging in our bathroom. Me, an even older wire egg basket that I'm going to use to hold firewood.) We ate fresh quiche and walked through cobbled streets.
Then we met the Orient Express back in Hastings (as in: Battle of).
It's a pretty train, huh?
The attendant in his livery met each of us at our train cars (they wore white gloves even. WHITE GLOVES. How do they keep them clean?)
Once inside, we were treated to a four-course meal, flowing champagne and sauvignon blanc, and I have to confess-we started getting a bit pickled.
(You can see the original lighting fixtures and the inlaid wood behind Angus here.)
The train was unbelievable. But even more unbelievable was that people gathered on train platforms and stared. They took pictures with cameras and camera phones. Passing through neighborhoods, people came out of their homes to stand and stare, and most of them waved to the train. When they did that, we'd wave back.
And I felt so incredibly, unbelievably shocked. I had this wonderful experience, this chance to do something that I never could have foreseen-I got to ride on this famous train and spend a day in a type of luxury I could never have imagined. Here they were, people coming out and waving at the train, taking pictures of it, the train running on tracks in their imagination...yet there I was, a chick who has the background I do-I come from origins so humble they have no claim to modesty. I'm a nothing. I don't deserve to ride a train as sumptuous as this one (much of the time, I don't deserve.) I am a stranger in a strange land but-more than that-I'm a stranger inside. I'm not posh, I didn't even pay for my ticket, the company did.
But I waved back.
Maybe it doesn't matter how I got there, all that matters is I was there.
The trip was brilliant. And I am so hugely thankful that I got to experience a day like that.
We both are.
-H.
PS-like others, we totally kept our champagne glasses (one of which has already accidentally been broken). We may have had this remarkable chance but we're still riffraff, really.
Posted by: Everydaystranger at
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