Scotland is a place that I love. From the first time I stepped foot in Scotland two and a half years ago, I loved it. ItÂ’s not even the big towns and city spaces that I love-while itÂ’s nice to know thereÂ’s a Gap and a SainsburyÂ’s available, IÂ’ve found something better. Somehow, this former big city girl (the bigger the better, the larger the more anonymous I get) has changed.

I love the Highlands.

The Highlands, where it goes from moon-like tundra to forest to sea in the space of a hill. Both Angus and I would happily purchase a home there and live life out, were it convenient for his kids to visit, convenient for our jobs, convenient for us putting on our “we’re finally getting away from it all” hats.

Until then, we settle for visits.

We left Tuesday night, making our way to Euston Station in London to catch the Caledonian Sleeper, departing Euston at 2115, arriving in Aberdeen at 745. We had two sleeping berths in our own cabin, all for a stately £19 per person. We slept with the rocking motion of the train.

I got to be on top.

When we got there it was a McDonald’s breakfast (we are Egg McMuffin fans, and we are not ashamed about that.) Then we made our way to the airport to get our rental car, and we started off for Inverness. Past Inverness we drove to our first stop-the Glenmorangie House, part of the Glenmorangie Distillery (and before you make the same mistake I do, it’s pronounced “Glen-MORANGE-y”). The place was set north of Tain, with a view to kill for. The weather was blustery and wild, but we checked in to our hotel.

It was luxury all around, and the driver (!!) drove us to the Distillery for a tour. We joined a group comprised of two other English couples and an American couple. The American couple tried my every last fucking nerve, as they made constant derisory comments-when they found out the Distillery had been bought 18 months ago by Louis Vuitton, they made disparaging comments (“Oh man, now we can’t buy the whiskey. As you know, America and France are no longer friends. We don’t even call them 'French Fries' anymore, they’re 'America Fries'.” Our Scottish hostess looked startled, and I wanted to smack them. You’re in SCOTLAND now, man. Keep up.)

We bought a bottle of Cellar 13 whiskey, which is apparently only available at the distillery.

This is ironic, mostly because we donÂ’t drink whiskey, either of us. I donÂ’t mind it, but sometimes it makes my shin bones leap out of my legs, so I try to take it easy with the stuff. I do have to say though, IÂ’ve always taken my whiskey neat, but Glenmorangie insisted that whiskey should have at least one drop of water in it to release the aromas and you know? Somehow, it does taste better.

Thirsty?

We took a walk. It was blustery.

But the hotel loaned us Wellington boots (which he wouldn't wear) and mackintoshes (which we did).

Then a nap.

That night we joined the 8 other guests of the hotel for dinner-it was a “dressing up” dinner do, and I went for it, 1920’s style.

We all sat around a large table together, and I was the youngest person there (besides Angus) by about 30 years. I was surprised at what a fantastic evening I had-the company was stellar, we got on brilliantly.

The next morning we all breakfasted together, then left (but not after getting another free bottle of whiskey. I wasnÂ’t aware that part of our stock from Sweden included an additional 6 bottles of AngusÂ’ whiskey. We have a lot of whiskey now, and weÂ’re not big drinkers of the stuff.)

We drove. We went right the way up the northwest curve of Scotland. We circled and swooped and laughed, and we saw many great and wonderous landscapes.

And of course a castle or two.

That night we stayed in a quiet little inlet on the coast of a place called Shieldaig. We slept with the sound of the Loch in our bedroom, the feel of good Scottish cooking in our stomachs. We slept with this view.

The next day we packed up and drove to the Isle of Skye. A small island flung into the sea, it is incredibly beautiful. We are lunch in our kind of place-a small family restaurant called Creeler’s with tacky décor but food so amazing that I am sure it’s one of the best lunches I’ve ever had. We met a local there.

We walked along Kyle of Lochalsh for a while, then drove up past many mountains, castles, and alongside Loch Ness to our hotel in Inverness.

Before we got there, we were in a traffic jam.

We took it easy that night, eating in the hotel and going to bed early.

The next day we started off slowly-breakfast, then a walk through Inverness, where I bought a dress the color of claret to wear to my friendÂ’s wedding. We got in the car and went to the Falls of Shin in the north, where we watched salmon leap and fight to go upstream.

We were happy.

We had a sunset that kept us speechless.

We had a big dinner and much wine, before falling asleep wound around each other.

The next day we took a long scenic route from Inverness to Aberdeen, where weÂ’d catch a flight home. On the way, we were serenaded by a rainbow of fruit flavors.

We got back after midnight last night, and weÂ’re today both exhausted and stressed outÂ…already.

-H.

PS-I'll have more pics of Scotland on Flickr, hopefully tomorrow. For now-stress!

Posted by: Everydaystranger at 02:01 PM | Comments (17) | Add Comment
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1 I LOVE LOVE LOVE the photos! Scotland looks absolutely beautiful, and I am very jealous of your trip. It sounds like you had a wonderful time, and I am happy for you

Posted by: geeky at October 16, 2006 03:01 PM (ziVl9)

2 I LOVE the 1920s dress! You look absolutely gorgeous. Scotland seems amazing. I'm so glad you had a relaxing long weekend. You certainly deserve it.

Posted by: Ice Queen at October 16, 2006 04:00 PM (Lyl8J)

3 Beautiful photos! I must admit, the last one of you is the most amazing picture of you that I have ever seen. The way the sun is hitting your hair, the look in your eye...you are just breath-taking in that photo.

Posted by: Dana at October 16, 2006 04:34 PM (wu+Fb)

4 Funny. No one I know calls them America Fries. Fucking tossers.

Posted by: statia at October 16, 2006 04:53 PM (NsnoE)

5 I would, trapped at this moment in time in NYC, dearly love to hop on a plane to re-create your weekend. And I agree with that comment about that last picture of you. You just keep getting more beautiful.

Posted by: RP at October 16, 2006 05:23 PM (LlPKh)

6 Absolutely beautiful pictures. When I was last over in '01 we made a very similar trip to Inverness. Such an amazing place, I do want to go back one day. In fact your story has made me think a little more seriously about it... Keep sharing!

Posted by: Bert at October 16, 2006 05:25 PM (Cgg4h)

7 Ah, Skye, I miss it so. It's such a beautiful little place, and the shopping was quite good there. Gorgeous pics. I especially love the portal-like shot.

Posted by: amy t. at October 16, 2006 06:03 PM (3dOTd)

8 The next time you hit a low I hope you get out these pictures and transport yourself back to this magical place and time. Just lovely.

Posted by: Donna at October 16, 2006 06:50 PM (Aanzg)

9 American Fries.. interesting.. that's news to me! Whatever. Anyways, great pictures! I love the 1920's getup, and I only wish I could find a red lipstick that suited me so well!

Posted by: Erin at October 16, 2006 07:55 PM (zw8QA)

10 Wow! I've never been to Scotland (I want to) but these pictures.. I need to go there! Glad you got to get out and enjoy yourself!

Posted by: Hannah at October 16, 2006 07:57 PM (ImQx2)

11 What a fantastic weekend! I can't wait to visit Scotland myself. That picture of you is gorgeous! Very happy for you too, you deserve a relaxing weekend!

Posted by: KimW at October 16, 2006 10:46 PM (tE2ob)

12 Pretty pretty. I have a pair of friends who are in Scotland for a year while she goes to librarian school. I know that they weren't the Americans you encountered because you would have definitely noticed them (the guy being the sweetest foul-mouthed punk who ever wore a Utilikilt.) Wish I could visit.

Posted by: B. Durbin at October 17, 2006 01:35 AM (tie24)

13 I love that you do not have any problem talking about how much you love Angus...

Posted by: SaraJane at October 17, 2006 05:57 PM (t5Xsa)

14 That is an absolutely stunning picture of you. The light was just perfect.

Posted by: girl at October 17, 2006 07:23 PM (z6Kyx)

15 I loved Scotland. I'm glad that you're enjoying it so much, probably even more than I did. BTW, I highly recommend the William Wallace Malt Whiskey Liqueur. You should definitely give it a try whilst you are there.

Posted by: physics geek at October 17, 2006 09:02 PM (KqeHJ)

16 Wow. I feel as though I've been there, now. Or - at the very least - as if I must go there soon! Stunning photography, Helen. Just beautiful.

Posted by: Jennifer at October 18, 2006 08:11 PM (jl9h0)

17 You are SO fucking gorgeous. *hugggggggggs*

Posted by: Margi at October 19, 2006 06:54 AM (cm+pX)

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